The long and beautiful process of making a Chikankari garment starts with designing, followed by engraving the fabric after which it goes for block-printing, then the main embroidery and finally washing and finishing. Then finally accents like mokaish, kamdani, baadla, beads, sequins and mirrors are added to make it richer and finally the tailoring part to make them ready to wear..
Centuries ago when Chikankari work came into existence it was almost always done on white muslin, which was worn in summers and warmer months and as comfortable daily wear..
With time and as the chikankari work gained popularity it became more exclusive and there was a demand to make it on various fabrics and in different colors. Though pastels are more popular in this craft, more and more people are coming to love darker colors as well. Now chikankari comes in mulmul, muslin, cotton, voile, chanderi, modal, rayon, chiffon, gorgette, organza and various silks.
Chikankari work has various kinds of emroidery styles coming under one bracket. In some cases there is one style of stitch used but in most cases 3 to 5 types are amalgamated to make beautiful patterns on the fabric.
Stitches include Pechani, Bijli, Ghaspatti, Makra, Kauri, Hathkadi, Banjkali, Sazi, Karan, Kapkapi, Madrazi, Bulbul-chasm, Taj Mahal, Janjeera, Kangan, Dhania- patti, Rozan, Meharki, Chanapatti, Baalda, Jora, Keel kangan, bulbul, sidhaul, ghas ki patti etc.